Stunt scooters can be very confusing at first, this guide is designed to help you fix any problems you may have with your stunt scooter. Feel free to browse everything or skip to exactly what you need.
#1 How to set up a stunt scooter
In order for your child to get to where the kid is above you will have to set up their stunt scooter ready to ride. Scooters traditionally come in 2 parts in the box, the bars and the deck and a handy set of Allen keys. In order to set your new scooter up safely, you simply have to place the bars over the compression and tighten the bolts as tight as you reasonably can all the while making sure the bars are in line with the front wheel.
Top tip - tighten the clamp where it is almost tight but you can twist the bars slightly and align the bar with the front wheel by standing over the scooter and looking directly down the bar, then tighten the clamp as much as is reasonably possible.
Before riding away we recommend doing the safety checks
#2 How to fix common stunt scooter issues?
The number one reason for maintaining your scooter is to make sure it remains safe and will not cause you any unnecessary accidents, secondly in order for you to get the most out of your stunt scooter it is a good idea to keep things lubricated and bolts tightened. With all extreme sports the equipment we use suffers a lot of punishment, especially the sports that utilize the skatepark as landing heavily repeatedly is bound to cause bolts to loosen and parts to get damaged. With the weather in England, the bearings on a stunt scooter are likely to suffer water damage which reduces their ability to spin and for you to speed about the park freely. We recommend checking your scooter quickly before every ride, keeping in mind that any rattling or wobbling of bars should not be occurring and we need to take it to the nearest adult to conduct safety checks.
Below is a video detailing all the steps to stop your scooter from rattling. If you are still unsure, we are always happy to help, just pop in-store and we can remove that rattling.
#3 What are the Safety checks I should do on my Stunt Scooter?
Before each rider, we recommend doing these 3 steps,
- Check if your bars are wobbly at all, if so, you will need to tighten your compression before you ride as it's not safe to ride with bars that could potentially come off or twist unexpectedly. We will go into more detail on this issue below.
- Check all your bolts are tight with an Allen key, this is usually a size 5mm or 6mm Allen key with stunt scooters. You may need 2 to tighten the front and back axles and usually a size 3mm or 4mm for your brake.
- Make sure your wheels are spinning correctly with no sideward movement, if there is a movement you may need to change your bearings or find spacers that remove any excess space on either side of your front or rear wheel.
Bonus tip - If you drop your scooter on the concrete, it should ideally sound like pumped-up basketball with no rattling at all, This is called 'dialed' within the scooter community. If there is rattling, you need to tighten a bolt somewhere. Where the rattling is occurring on the scooter is a good indicator of where the scooter needs to be tightened. If your scooter is good to go, enjoy your session!
#4 How to tighten your compression on your stunt scooter?
With decent stunt scooters, you will have a compression system which is IHC, HIC, or SCS. When these compression systems become loose due to vibration and impact the bars can wobble and become loose over time. To resolve this issue on HIC or IHC compression systems you need to remove the bars by undoing the bolts on the clamp and then tighten the compression bolt which is now exposed, this needs to be tightened to the point where you can flick the wheel 180 degrees if you can flick it more it requires tightening if you cannot flick it 180 degrees it needs loosening. This is the sweet spot where your scooter feels best, allowing you to perform whips and bars without feeling restricted while at the same time being safe. Once your compression is tightened, you can attach your bars once again and your scooter should be dialed and the bars do not wobble.
If you are still unsure, we are always happy to help, just pop in-store and we can remove that wobbling for you.
#5 How to clean your headset in order to remove a grinding noise when rotating the scooter?
Over time and especially during the wintertime in the UK, your headset may suffer water damage causing it not to spin as freely and create a grinding noise. An easy way to solve these would be to replace it, but that is not always necessary. If you remove your headset from the scooter and clean away any dirt or grease and then use lithium grease to lubricate again it will be as good as new. Please note: Do not use water-based lubricants such as WD40 as this will ruin your bearings. Make sure your scooter is correctly set up before going out and riding on it, do your safety checks.
If you have a rusted or broken headset, the best thing to do would be to replace it, your scooter will thank you for it. You can find our headset collection here: Headsets.
#6 How to replace wheels and bearings?
Due to wheels taking the brunt of the wear and tear they are the parts of the scooter that are most commonly replaced, especially if you ride it a lot. In order to replace the wheels, all you need is two Allen keys, occasionally you will only need one for the rear axle. Make sure the size of your new wheels is compatible with your forks and decks, if you are not sure, get the same size as your original ones. To change the wheels, loosen the axles, bearing in mind that any spacers need to be kept safe and put back in the same position in order for there to be no rattling with the new wheels. Once you have removed the old wheels and spacers, carefully place the new wheels in the same position and tighten them until you feel a lot of resistance.
It is not so straightforward to replace stunt scooter bearings in your wheels, brute force is required to knock the old ones out, with a hammer and an Allen key or screwdriver. To place new bearings in the wheel, you have a choice of methods which you will be able to find on Youtube.
- A Vice to force the bearings in slowly
- A piece of wood and a hammer to lightly tap the bearings in, careful not to damage the bearings.
If you are still unsure, we are always happy to help, just pop in-store and we can replace those old bearings for you. Another option would be to replace the wheels and you can find our collection of wheels here: Wheels.
#7 Description of parts
These are the parts and terms most associated with stunt scooters and will help you identify what needs replacing or fixing when things go wrong on your stunt scooter.
You are not the first person to be baffled by HIC, IHC, SCS and ICS, we will create video on content that goes into more depth with these terms.
Axle Spacers - These are small cylindrical pieces of metal that allow stunt scooter wheels to sit flush within the fork or rear of the deck in order to reduce the amount of friction and therefore rattling of a scooter.
Bars (handlebars) - These are the part of a stunt scooter that extend out of the deck and allow the rider to hold and twist the stunt scooter, similar functionality to those that are on a bike handlebars
Bar Ends - These are the pieces of metal or plastic inserted into the end of your bars to prevent damage to yourself and your bars from damage. As exposed metal can pose a potential risk.
Brake - The brake on stunt scooters can be found on the rear of the scooter, above the wheel, these allow the rider to place their foot over the back wheel and slow down depending on the amount of pressure they place upon the break.
Compression Kit - This is what holds the key parts of your scooter together, there are 3 main types of compression HIC, IHC, and SCS, we will go into them in more detail, essentially it is the system implemented for your forks connected with your deck and bars.
Deck/Footplate - This is the part a rider stands on and can come in many shapes, styles and sizes.
Double Clamp - A double clamp is a two-bolt system that wraps around the bottom of your bars, by tightening the bolts on the clamp each one a turn at a time the clamp tightens around the bar and top of the forks to keep the bars in place on the scooter.
Forks - The forks are situated at the front of the scooter and hold the front wheel in place while simultaneously linking the deck bars and clamp together, similar to how forks on a bike work.
Front and Rear Axles - Axles are bolts through the front and back wheels which allow them to stay in place, similar to an axle on a car.
Grip Tape - This is the sandpaper-like sheet that is placed on the top of the deck allowing the scooter rider to grip their deck and perform tricks even in wet conditions.
Handlebar Grips - These are the rubber grips that allow the rider to grip their bars with their hands, these can also be found on BMX bikes.
HIC - This stands for hidden internal compression, a hic compression is when a HIC is secured over a HIC fork. This is when an oversized bar, clamp and fork work together, the clamp holds the bars tight around the fork and HIC kit allowing the scooter to fit, last, and work correctly. HIC is most commonly used with custom stunt scooters as riders tend to be a bit heavier and require a more solid compression solution without sacrificing too much weight.
We will make a video explaining this one soon, as it is far easier to demonstrate in video format.
IHC - Internal hidden compression, is a smaller lighter version of IHC compression and requires standard size bars to operate optimally on a stunt scooter. This was developed by Blunt scooters and now, most off-the-shelf complete scooters utilize this compression system.
Metal Core Wheels - These are designed to last a lot longer than their plastic counterparts and are usually made from aluminum in various designs. The standard wheel sizes are 100mm and 110mm, what size of wheel you choose is up to rider tastes and the size that your forks allow, it is always best to choose 110mm if you are not sure as this is the industry standard.
Plastic Core Stunt Scooter Wheels - These are seen on the cheaper models as they have a tendency to snap if any sort of pressure is placed upon them. If the rider is quite light and not leaving the ground, these wheels are great.
Quad Clamp - A quad clamp has 4 bolts and secures the forks to the bars without actually touching, this is the SCS system.
The video format is the best way to demonstrate this
SCS - This is the standard compression system, this works by securing the clamp to the forks with a star nut over the forks and then fitting the bars into the top part of the clamp, with SCS the bars cannot have a slit or the system will not work correctly. You Can remove the effectiveness of a slit by using an SCS adapter or bar sleeve.
The video format is the best way to demonstrate this
Stunt Pegs - These are cylindrical pieces of metal attached to the wheels to allow the rider to perform grinds or 'stunts'
Threadless Forks - These are the higher-end forks and do not have a thread.
Threadless Headset - This is a nonsealed removable bearing that allows the stunt scooter to spin 360 degrees freely. These are similar to the ones found in BMX and mountain bikes
If you need any more advice or get stuck with one of these fixes please get in touch with us over the phone or via email.
We hope you get as much enjoyment as possible from your stunt scooter.
The Select Scooters team.